With commitment, investment, and action from brands, transitioning to renewable electricity to cut emissions and reduce pollution is achievable, and impactful. According to a new analysis by the Apparel Impact Institute (Aii) on thermal decarbonization and electrification, it is within reach for brands to reach a 100% renewable electricity supply chain in China, India and Vietnam by 2030, and across Indonesia and Bangladesh by 2040 with ambitious action. [1]
A commitment to at least half upstream emissions by 2030, and specific commitments to phase out coal and transition to renewables for electricity and heat, sends important demand signals to manufacturers and governments that clean energy is essential for the industry’s future.
Clear thermal energy pathways are essential, and should not just include how brands will support suppliers to phase out coal, but also which alternative heat sources or processes will be prioritized, reflecting the potential impact on local communities.
Since 2018, fashion brands which are signatories of the UN Fashion Charter for Climate Action have had a commitment to fully phase out coal-fired boilers by 2030, with no new coal boilers from 2023. However, transition challenges and a focus on showing rapid emissions reduction has led to the concerning adoption or prioritization of certain false solutions, including fossil gas and biomass.
While biomass and gas may lead to reduced CO2 emissions being reported in the short term, and electrification may not yield immediate emissions reductions if the electricity grid still relies on fossil fuels, it is important to note that this does not make them the most environmentally friendly, or just, solutions. The Aii points to several important ongoing challenges, including the price volatility of sourcing gas, the additional, largely undercounted climate impact of methane emissions which can result in overall GHG emissions even higher than that of coal, and the difficulty of sourcing genuinely sustainable biomass, particularly in the case of widespread adoption. [2]
Stand.earth asserts that biomass cannot be sustainable at an industrial scale and will lead to significant danger of harm to local food and fuel sources and access to land, and that it is imperative for brands to move beyond burning into long-term electrification and reduce their energy needs through innovations such as waterless dyeing.[3]

