Closed-loop recycling for synthetics, the use of plant-based materials, and regenerative agriculture in cotton farming are gaining attention as options for achieving greater circularity and sustainability. Compared to the 2021 Scorecard, companies have made some progress in using low-carbon materials and increasing circularity by using the above-mentioned methods. However, efforts from the entire industry remain insufficient.
Only 11 brands – ASICS, Eileen Fisher, Inditex, Kering, lululemon, Mammut, New Balance, On Running, Patagonia, PUMA, and VF Corporation – have committed to increasing closed-loop apparel-to-apparel recycling for synthetics by investing and working with textile recyclers. This is essential to scale closed-loop recycling into a workable solution. The Hey Fashion textile recycling initiative founded by Eileen Fisher estimates that, if scaled across the industry, existing recycling solutions could drive 80% circularity. However, currently, just 0.5% of the global fibre market comes from recycled textiles.[11] Promoting textile recycling through design, material choices, and investment is an essential part of driving circularity in the fashion industry. Brands must recognise and act responsibly to reduce their waste, engaging in closed-loop circular recycling instead of misleading, false or partial solutions.
Since the 2021 Scorecard, nine more brands have made commitments to sustainable raw materials sourcing. Currently, 14 brands have committed to reducing the impact of their raw materials sourcing by switching to 100% organic cotton or cotton sourced from regenerative agriculture. Regenerative agriculture seeks to mend the environmental and social harms that highly intensive and extractive conventional cotton farming has caused.[12]
Regenerative agriculture requires brands to form closer ties and longer-term relationships with their Tier 4 suppliers, with the intention of building more equitable and less extractive relationships. The remaining 29 brands should follow suit and commit to natural fibres from organic or regenerative sources.
Promisingly, more than half of the companies have taken some measures to break away from the problematic linear ‘take-make-dispose’’ system and encourage reuse, resale, repair, and recycling to extend the life of products. These measures include: designing for durability and recyclability, offering in-house maintenance and repair services, and launching take-back and resale programs.